NOT Galloping Through Europe: A 12-Day Itinerary for France and Italy. PART 2: Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, France

Welcome to our exciting 12-day journey, which will take us from the majestic French Alps to the picturesque Italian Riviera and back. We began our adventure on the shores of the charming Lake Geneva, and now we are heading to Chamonix-Mont-Blanc. Here, we will ascend the Aiguille du Midi, descend to the Mer de Glace glacier, and visit the ice caves of Mont Blanc. Then we will head to Liguria to enjoy the unique beauty of the five villages of Cinque Terre. On our way back, we will take a scenic drive from the coast to Lake Iseo, where we can relax and enjoy nature.

Day 3:
Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, France

Just an hour’s drive from our campsite is the highest peak in Europe – Mont Blanc. We had been planning our route there in advance.

To save time, you need to book your tickets on the Mont Blanc Natural Resort website (montblancnaturalresort.com). The website offers various tariffs, we chose the Mont Blanc Multipass for one day, which includes a variety of activities. We booked a seat in the gondola in advance for 8:45, having first looked at the weather forecast. The forecast turned out to be accurate, and the sun accompanied us all day. Having climbed the line in two gondolas from a height of about 1900 m, we reached the 3842 m mark at the top of the Aiguille du Midi.

The Aiguille du Midi is one of the most popular and accessible peaks in the Mont Blanc massif. It offers breathtaking panoramic views of the Alps. The platform at the top offers a 360-degree view of the mountain peaks, including Mont Blanc itself. It is also home to “Step into the Void” – a glass balcony hanging over the abyss that allows you to literally step into the void. Depending on the influx of tourists, the queue to visit the balcony can stretch to an hour. In addition, the Aiguille du Midi is the starting point for many mountaineering routes and expeditions.

We spent more than two hours here, enjoying the views. If you have time, you can take the Skyway Monte Bianco panoramic horizontal cable car from here to Italy and admire Mont Blanc from the other side (not included in the Multipass. Tickets can be purchased in advance or at the top).

The Skyway Monte Bianco is a unique cable car that connects Pointe Helbronner in Italy and the Aiguille du Midi in France. It offers breathtaking panoramic views of the Alpine landscapes, rising through glaciers and rock formations. The cable car cabins have rotating platforms, allowing passengers to enjoy 360-degree views during the ascent. We had other plans, and after descending to the intermediate station (2400 m, Plan de l’Aiguille, 74400, Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, France), we, having a glass of local beer and enjoying the views of the Mont Blanc massif and the Chamonix valley, moved on foot.

The view of the snow-capped peaks and the Alpine mountains created an indescribable sense of peace and grandeur of nature. Our journey to Montenvers Mer de Glace was supposed to take 2.5 hours (about 7 km). However, the beautiful views around every corner delayed us, and we spent more than 3 hours on it. This route is part of the Mont Blanc Ultra Trail (Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc).

The Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc route covers France, Italy, and Switzerland, offering a unique opportunity to run through three countries in one race. The race starts in the heart of Chamonix, at the foot of the majestic Mont Blanc, on the Place du Mont-Blanc. Participants begin their journey early in the morning, when the first rays of sunlight illuminate the snow-capped peaks. The finish line is also in Chamonix, completing the loop and bringing the runners back to the starting point. The total distance of the ultramarathon is 170 kilometers, overcoming mountain peaks and valleys.

The Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc is not just a sporting event, but also a unique opportunity to test your strength on mountain trails and enjoy stunning views of three countries at once. The race takes place every year in late summer. At this time, many tourists gather in Chamonix, which should be taken into account when planning your vacation.

Montenvers and the Mer de Glace glacier are one of the most popular tourist routes in the Alps.(Le Montenvers, 74400 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, Frankreich)

In order to catch the last train to Chamonix, which left at 4:30 pm, we couldn’t relax and lose sight of time. Our goal was to descend to the foot of the Mer de Glace glacier. To do this, we took the cable car and then descended a 540-step staircase. As a result, we found ourselves in ice caves carved into the tongue of the glacier. During the descent, markings are visible indicating the places where the glacier was 50 or 100 years ago. The Mer de Glace glacier, or “Sea of Ice”, is the largest in France, stretching for 12 kilometers with an ice thickness of up to 400 meters. However, it is melting at an alarming rate, requiring the addition of 35 to 45 steps each year and the carving of new ice caves to reach the tongue of the glacier. This place, in addition to its natural beauty and significance for climate science, also attracts many tourists.

A walk through the ice caves becomes an unforgettable and exciting adventure. Informative plaques inside the caves immerse you in the history of the glacier. The ice from which the caves were carved for tourists in 2023 fell as snow on the summit of Mont Blanc in 1746. In just 277 years, it has turned into a mighty glacier, and today we can easily touch this ancient ice with our hands.

The way back, overcoming 540 steps, turned out to be more difficult than the descent, but we were pressed for time and managed to catch the last Montenvers train, which took us down a picturesque gorge back to Chamonix. All these views seemed to be taken from delightful postcards. The day was eventful and magical, every moment filled us with delight and left unforgettable impressions. The grandeur of the mountains and the mysterious beauty of the ice caves reminded us of the power of nature, making this day truly unforgettable.

Day 4:
Evian, France

Everyone is familiar with the famous French mineral water Evian. Just a 20-minute drive from our campsite is the town of Évian and the source of the water that quenches the thirst of people all over the world. After visiting the small Evian water museum, we filled a couple of empty bottles with water from this source. Taking a short funicular ride, we enjoyed stunning views of the lake and its surroundings, as if immersing ourselves in picturesque paintings that seem to be taken straight out of a fairy tale. The town of Évian is striking with its beauty and historical heritage, and the source of its famous water becomes an integral part of the journey, leaving vivid memories in the heart.

Lena
Lena
Our routes are always budget-friendly, spartan, and a bit impromptu. But, strangely enough, the experiences always feel like five-star adventures. We sketch out points on the map in advance, then navigate and adjust the route on the fly once we’re there. After all, who said luxurious travel isn't possible with a sandwich in your pocket and a caramel in your cheek?

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