I had cautiously allocated only three hours for Mérida in my plan, with low expectations. But we ended up loving the city!
Mérida is the capital of the Yucatán province, home to over a million people. Founded in 1542, it is one of the first cities in the New World. We parked the car and headed toward the main square, and right away, we saw a church and some interesting houses along the way…
And then we stepped onto the main square, and there…
First, the cathedral—one of the oldest in the Americas, built from the stones of demolished Mayan pyramids. The interior is quite austere, but we happened to catch a service with a live organ playing!
Next to the cathedral— a theater!
And then, the palace of Francisco de Montejo—the founder of Mérida. Built in 1542, only the façade remains original, while the interior has been rebuilt multiple times. Entry is free.
After soaking in the history, we continued our walk around the square and took photos in front of the city hall and the “Merida” sign.
The last building, the Government Palace of Yucatán, we almost passed by since there were stern-looking guards at the entrance. But we noticed a crowd inside and asked if we could enter. At first, it seemed like “nothing special”—a building with relatively modern murals from the 1970s by Fernando Castro Pacheco. We walked in, took a few photos, and then started looking closer at the scenes and reading the descriptions (most had detailed explanations). Suddenly, the history of Yucatán came to life right before our eyes!
The Execution of Jacinto Canek
On November 19, 1761, a Mayan uprising broke out in the village of Cisteil, led by Jacinto Canek. This rebellion was a response to the terrible living conditions imposed on the indigenous people during the colonial period. Although the rebels initially saw some success, the superior weaponry and tactics of the Europeans soon overpowered the poorly organized fighters, who had only bows, arrows, and a few old muskets for defense. Canek was captured and sentenced to death along with several of his followers.
The execution took place on September 14, 1761, in the main square of Mérida, right in front of the Montejo House, at eight o’clock in the morning. The gruesome spectacle unfolded in the presence of the governor, the most influential captains, and the wealthiest landowners of the province. Canek was brutally executed—his body was quartered with red-hot iron bars and pincers, and his remains were burned, with his ashes scattered to the wind.
Francisco de Montejo – the Commander, the Son, and the Nephew
Commander Francisco de Montejo began the conquest of Yucatán, but when he grew tired, he decided to entrust the completion of the task to his son, who bore the same name. He died in Spain, poor and alone.
It was his son, Francisco, who truly completed the conquest of Yucatán. He founded the city of Mérida in 1542 and died there 23 years later.
Finally, there was also a nephew, also named Francisco de Montejo, who worked closely with his cousin in the conquest of Yucatán and founded the city of Valladolid in 1543.
War of Castes
The so-called “Caste War” in Yucatán lasted for over 50 years and claimed around 300,000 lives. In the end, it became a historical grievance without political peace or a ceasefire. This is, of course, one of the bloodiest events in the history of the peninsula. There are many theories about the motives that led to the start of this war, and one of them suggests that the uprising occurred due to the accumulated hatred and anger among the Maya, who faced the tyranny of whites who exploited and oppressed them.
We headed from the central square towards Montiego Boulevard. At its base, there is a monument to the two founders – father and son.
The boulevard is certainly beautiful: wide, with flowerbeds, road markings, and even rental bikes! Along the way, there are examples of colonial architecture.
We reached one of the buildings, which houses a museum. We were told and shown how the family lived in the early 20th century. It is still owned by the heir, who is 96 years old.
The last place we visited was the Anthropological Museum, but we were mainly interested in the mansion itself.
To be honest, both can easily be skipped, but definitely take a stroll along the avenue! Between the square and the boulevard, there’s a lovely, colorful architecture with lots of little shops and cafés. It’s a real treat for the eyes. Everything is very clean too.
I keep thinking about my perception. For some reason, I focus on the interesting and positive aspects, and they are easy to find. Can you see poverty in this city (outside of the center)? Absolutely! And there’s plenty of dilapidation (just take a parallel street). On my first visit, we went to Valladolid, and I remember my shock—how can anyone look at this?! How do people live here?!
But this time, I’m constantly amazed by how “civilized” everything feels. The same bikes, or how there’s a bike lane along the entire highway! We even had some juice (we ended up waiting at a traffic light) and then went to swim!
Today, I managed to snap a photo of the police. This is how they ride in open truck beds in large teams to provide security. At the very least, I trust them and feel safe.
