From the Edge of the Falls: My Iguazu Adventure

At six а. m. I was already in the air, and after five and a half hours, I landed in São Paulo, the transit point on the way to the Iguazu Falls (cataratas) at the junction of three countries: Brazil, Argentina, and Uruguay. Two hours at the airport, another hour and a half of flying, and I was in the city of Foz do Iguaçu.

The next morning, bus No. 120 from the city’s central bus station – Terminal Transporte Urbano (TTU) took me to the entrance of the Iguazu National Park, open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. The shuttle ride within the park is included in the ticket price.

It is said that Eleanor Roosevelt, upon seeing Iguazu Falls, exclaimed, “My poor Niagara!” No wonder. Iguazu Falls are twice as high as Niagara (60 to 82 meters) and three times wider. And they are wider than Victoria Falls in Africa. But this is not a single torrent of water like Niagara; instead, there are about 270 s of varying heights and flow rate along 2.7 km, which only unite into a single front during the rainy season.

On the Brazilian side, there was only one viewpoint of the waterfall. You can descend almost to the water’s edge there, but you should be ready to get drenched with the water mist of rising from the mass of falling water. Recently, a viewing platform was added to see the Devil’s Throat (described later) from below.There is also a tower with an elevator from which you can see the waterfalls on the Argentine side. Powerful waterfalls have a kind of magical effect on me: I cannot tear myself away from the never-ending mighty flow of huge masses of water (here – one and a half million liters per second!), with an eternal cloud of mist hovering above it. They have a primeval, intimidating power.

If you have time (I didn’t, unfortunately), near the Iguazu Visitor Center there is the Bird Park (Parque das Aves), where you can see toucans and macaw parrots in their natural environment. You can also take a tour of the 8-kilometer Itaipu Dam (Presa de Itaipu) on the Paraná River, 196 meters high, with the most powerful hydroelectric station in the world.

Before heading to the Argentine side of the falls, I stopped at a supermarket and once again stepped on the same rake: I picked a grape and swallowed it; the result wasn’t as devastating as in the salad incident in Peru, but still rather unpleasant. (By the way, the girl I was on a tour with in Manaus said she’s been drinking tap water since day one in South America, like it’s nothing. Iron stomach, and a rare case.)

A direct bus from Foz do Iguaçu goes to the bus station in Puerto Iguazú on the Argentine side. But you can’t go non-stop. You have to get off at the Brazilian passport control (tell the driver you need to get off at “Brazil Immigration” or “Brasil Imigração” since locals don’t need to stop). While you’re “checking out” of Brazil, the bus will leave, and you’ll have to wait for the next one. Don’t lose your ticket, and wait for the bus of the company you arrived with, or you’ll need to buy a new ticket. It’s a bit annoying, but manageable.

In Puerto Iguazú, the bus to the falls leaves every half hour from the central bus station (Terminal de Ómnibus), and the park opens at 8 a.m. The park has two walking routes: the upper one, Paseo Superior, 1750 meters long, which takes you along the top of the falls to Mbigua fall, and the lower one, Paseo Inferior, 2.5 km long and rather demanding, which takes you right up to the falls (be prepared to get wet). You can also descend to motorboats and take a 20-minute ride, getting very close to the falls.

From the final station of the park’s train, you can (and should!) walk two kilometers on a wooden boardwalk over the water to the largest waterfall, the famous Devil’s Throat, Garganta de Diablo, where enormous masses of water arc 150 meters with truly devilish force and deafening roar, plunging 82 meters into the giant pit of the “throat.” (So that’s why Rabelais gave his hero this name, Gargantua!) There is no other place like this on our planet. Needless to say, UNESCO has recognized the Iguazu Falls as a World Heritage site.

Throughout the park, charming coatis roam – one of the symbols of Iguazu Falls. I saw a line of babies crossing the path behind their mother, completely ignoring people. The coatis are especially active near the cafes, hoping to get some food, and even climbing onto the tables. Be careful: they have very sharp claws.

Impressed and a little bit disappointed (I didn’t get to see everything I could have), I began to look forward for my meeting with Buenos Aires.