Exploring Normandy and Brittany: A 5-Day Itinerary. Day 2: Sunday Market in Saint-Martin-de-Bréhal, Granville

The Sunday farmers’ market in Saint-Martin-de-Bréhal offers an authentic immersion into the local atmosphere and the gastronomic delights of the region. Here you can find everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to aromatic cheeses and sausages (6 Av. Dr de la Bellière, 50290 Bréhal, France).

Depending on the season, the market may also move to the nearby Hauteville-sur-Mer, while still retaining its charm and appeal (9-1 Rue de la Butte À Moulin, 50590 Hauteville-sur-Mer, France). Lively from early morning, the market attracts not only locals but also tourists eager to experience the true spirit of Normandy. As you stroll past the stalls, you’ll see neatly displayed fresh vegetables and fruits. Nearby, you’ll find stalls with local cheeses, each with its own unique aroma and flavor. Sausages and hams, hanging above the counters, emit mouth-watering aromas, inviting you to taste them.

A special place at the market is occupied by seafood. Here, you can buy fresh mussels, just brought in from local farms. One of the traditional dishes in Normandy is Moules — black mussels that are cultivated on special farms.

The significant tidal fluctuations create favorable conditions for cultivating mussels, making them exceptionally tender and flavorful here. After trying various mussel preparations in restaurants, we have found our perfect sauce recipe and are delighted to share it with you. Mussels can be purchased vacuum-packed in stores, by weight, or you can gather them yourself during low tide.

Recipe for Mussels in Cream Sauce

ИНГРЕДИЕНТЫ:

  • Fresh mussels
  • Vegetable oil for frying
  • Onion
  • Sweet pepper
  • Hot pepper
  • Lemon juice
  • A spoonful of Dijon mustard
  • Spices: curry, black pepper, cloves, bay leaf, cardamom, coriander, salt, sugar. Improvise with spices to your taste and desire.
  • Herbs
  • 30% cream
  • Garlic
  • A teaspoon of butter

Rinse the mussels thoroughly several times under running water.

Preparation of the sauce:

  1. Fry the onion in vegetable oil until transparent.
  2. Add chopped sweet and hot peppers, and continue frying until soft.
  3. Add lemon juice, Dijon mustard, spices, and herbs, and mix well.
  4. Add cream diluted with water in a 1:3 ratio, garlic, and butter. Mix and bring to a boil, but do not let it boil.
  5. Place the mussels in parts on a hot skillet. The mussels should open their shells immediately. If any mussels do not open, discard them.
  6. Pour the prepared sauce over the mussels and bring to a boil under a lid, occasionally shaking the skillet to ensure the mussels are evenly coated with the sauce.

The cooked mussels can be enjoyed with pasta or a baguette, and of course, with French white wine or Crémant. Bon appétit!

The Sunday market in Saint-Martin-de-Bréhal is not just a place for shopping; it is a true cultural event worth visiting to experience the spirit of Normandy and enjoy its gastronomic riches.

The fishing town of Granville deserves attention. Spending an entire day here can satisfy any interest. Taking a walk around the cape where the town is located and enjoying the sea views from the steep rocky shore provides true pleasure from being one with nature. The town is a real gem for history lovers. The lighthouse, fortifications, and war remnants create an atmosphere of a bygone era and allow you to immerse yourself in the historical events and legends of this unique place.

From our campsite, you can walk to Granville in 40-50 minutes along the shore. Ascending from the shore, you first reach an old cemetery. This cemetery is the resting place of well-known Granville residents. Having been neglected for a long time, the cemetery is a true open-air museum, crowned with a delightful sea view. The crypts, which are real architectural monuments, and the graves, decorated in a completely unexpected manner, bring a special reverence to this place. In recent years, the cemetery has been restored, with information plaques installed bearing the names of the buried. There is no gloomy atmosphere typical of such places, only a sense of tranquility and peace. Next to the cemetery, there is a free parking lot, and if desired, you can replace the walk along the ocean with a car trip (11 Rue du Cimetière Notre Dame, 50400 Granville, France).

Continuing along the coast, we come upon a delightful garden that belongs to the Christian Dior house-museum. This charming corner of nature, infused with an atmosphere of elegance and sophistication, embodies the aesthetics and inspiration of the French fashion house. Numerous flower beds intertwined with graceful architectural forms create a sense of peace and tranquility. This garden not only pleases the eye but also invites us to immerse ourselves in a world of beauty and harmony, leaving unforgettable impressions of the great French designer and his inspiration for creating unique designs.

A small café in the center of the garden provides a wonderful opportunity to enjoy a refreshing drink surrounded by rose bushes with a magnificent view of the ocean. Every time I walk through this amazing place, I reflect on the idea that for someone born and raised here, spending their childhood enveloped by the beauty and fragrance of this place, becoming a great artist is almost inevitable. In the corner of the garden, a small structure is hidden—the laboratory where Dior experimented with fragrances. Through the window of this laboratory, one can observe the play of light on old bottles and flasks while inhaling the aromas of the blooming rose garden.

Descending down the winding staircase from the Dior house garden, we reach the waterfront. Walking along the stone promenade, you can reach Pointe du Roc in just half an hour. Along the shore are small wooden houses where locals or guests of local hotels store beach equipment—chairs, loungers, and other essentials for seaside relaxation.

The changing tides can create unpredictable conditions for swimming, so along the Normandy coast, you’ll find numerous rock pools—large baths filled with seawater during high tide and preserved during low tide, providing an opportunity for swimming at any time, regardless of the lunar phase.

Walking around the cape to Pointe du Roc is a true delight. The views unfolding at every turn, the rocky cliffs, and the sea of amazing colors make the walk unforgettable. From Pointe du Roc, as you ascend upwards, you reach the cape where the fortifications are located. These fortifications include bastions built to defend the coastal area from invasions. They remind us of the region’s rich history and are a wonderful place for walks and enjoying panoramic views of the sea and the surrounding countryside.

The fortifications area on the cape is extensive and offers plenty of opportunities for exploration and relaxation. Additionally, at the cape, you can visit the Shell Museum in Granville. This museum houses a unique collection of shells and marine treasures gathered from around the world.

The return journey from Pointe du Roc to the parking area through the old town is a wonderful opportunity to discover Granville. Cozy streets, numerous restaurants, and cafes create a unique atmosphere in this small fishing town. Strolling through the ancient quarters, you can enjoy architecture steeped in history and experience the local life. Small boutiques, souvenir shops, and local bakeries add charm to this walk. Here you can find everything from fresh seafood to exquisite delicacies for which the region is renowned.

We are simply relaxing while being in this town, enjoying its unhurried pace and friendly atmosphere.

Lena
Lena
Our routes are always budget-friendly, spartan, and a bit impromptu. But, strangely enough, the experiences always feel like five-star adventures. We sketch out points on the map in advance, then navigate and adjust the route on the fly once we’re there. After all, who said luxurious travel isn't possible with a sandwich in your pocket and a caramel in your cheek?

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