Corsica: The Island Where Beauty Is a Part of Everyday Life. Camping Tuani.

Day 9: Journey to the Camping Site in the Restonica Valley – Vallee Restonica

After checking the weather forecast and confirming clear skies for the next three days, we decided to move to a camping site in the heart of the Restonica Valley to explore the area and enjoy walks along the river. The journey to the island’s center was breathtakingly scenic: a narrow winding road meandered through verdant hills, revealing stunning views at every turn. Mountain slopes were blanketed with dense forests, while blue waters of streams and rivers sparkled below, carving their way through rocky beds. Driving these roads, surrounded by serene nature and the crisp mountain air filled with the scent of pine and wildflowers, felt like time itself had slowed down.

The drive to the Restonica Gorge took about an hour and a half. After inspecting two camping sites in the town of Corte, we decided to venture further into the gorge and chose a camping spot (Camping Tuani), nestled right on the banks of the Restonica River. This campsite, set under towering pine trees, offered a sense of tranquility and seclusion, with the crystal-clear mountain river just steps away from our tent.

A short path led us down to the river, where we could immerse ourselves in natural pools formed by the rocks. The water in the Restonica was noticeably colder than in the Conca River, but the warm and sunny weather made dipping into the cool water an exhilarating and refreshing experience.

Day 10: Hiking Through the Restonica Valley

The Restonica Valley is one of Corsica’s most picturesque locations. Stretching alongside the namesake river, it features cascading waterfalls and natural pools filled with crystal-clear water. The water here is cold and refreshing, perfect for a dip after a long hike. Surrounding pine forests provide ample shade, and the air is infused with the scent of resin and wild nature.

The landscape of the valley feels like a fairytale: sheer cliffs covered in greenery, massive boulders scattered along the riverbanks, and endless vistas of mountain peaks. Numerous trails lead to secluded corners of the river, perfect for solitude and relaxation. In some areas, the valley narrows and becomes rocky, while in others, it opens up to reveal expansive panoramic views.

The Restonica Valley exudes tranquility and an authentic sense of wilderness. It feels like time has stood still here, offering travelers an immersive experience in the serenity and grandeur of Corsica’s mountains.

Camping Tuani in the Restonica Gorge proved to be an excellent base for our exploration of this beautiful mountainous region. Nestled among pine trees on the riverbank, it was incredibly quiet and peaceful. The clean facilities, including showers and toilets, were a pleasant surprise. The lack of internet and mobile connection added to the sense of complete disconnection and relaxation. This place is ideal for those looking to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

The only downside was the limited number of electricity hookups. We had to stretch a 40-meter cable to reach the nearest socket, but it didn’t detract from the overall experience.

The campsite also served as a perfect starting point for hiking through the gorge. We chose a trail along the river, planning to stop and swim in natural pools. Although a bus was available, we opted to hike. The route was stunning—lush green pines, crisp mountain air, and breathtaking views of the mountains.

Along the way, we came across a collapsed bridge. Unfortunately, heavy rains last autumn turned the seemingly gentle Restonica River into a torrent, destroying the structure. The remnants of the bridge served as a reminder of the unpredictable and powerful nature of Corsica. Crossing the river on foot was an option to reach Lac de Melu, where the Restonica River originates, but we decided to turn back and continue exploring along the river.

We continued walking along the rocky riverbed, which was quite engaging. Traversing the stones requires good footwear and a bit of agility, but it’s a rewarding experience. We frequently paused to swim or simply relax. This type of hike is a hallmark of Corsica.

The return journey took significantly longer as the path wound through the forest, among towering pine trees and massive moss-covered boulders. The surroundings made us feel like tiny beings in a vast natural world. Towering pines and oversized rocks created a surreal atmosphere, as if we’d stumbled into a fairy tale. Waist-high ferns further distorted the sense of scale, making us feel small and almost lost amidst these ancient giants, which must have stood here for centuries.

During our hike, we found some mushrooms, including buttery boletus. Inspired by our discovery, we decided to prepare a mushroom risotto for dinner, following a recipe from our friend Lily in Israel.

Each mushroom we found brought a burst of excitement, adding a delightful bonus to our hike. Returning with a basket of fresh mushrooms made our day even more special.

The Restonica Gorge is a place where time seems to slow down. It’s quiet, serene, and incredibly beautiful. This place will remain in our hearts for a long time.

Day 11: The Town of Corte

Early mornings in Corte carry a unique charm. Nestled amidst the mountains, the town seems to awaken with the first rays of sunlight as mist drifts over the valleys. The narrow cobblestone streets remain quiet, save for a few locals heading out to fetch fresh baguettes or visit the morning market. Shutters creak open on old stone houses, revealing windows that frame breathtaking mountain views.

We began our day at Boulangerie Casanova 1887, a small, family-owned bakery in the heart of Corte. Founded in 1887, this boulangerie has delighted locals for generations with its exceptional bread and pastries. Its modest façade, adorned with a weathered sign, invites you to step back in time to a world where tradition reigns supreme. Behind the counter, laden with crusty baguettes and golden croissants, friendly bakers uphold the legacy of their craft. The cozy atmosphere is steeped in history, with the aroma of fresh bread blending seamlessly with the stories of this place. Black-and-white photos on the walls depict early generations of the family, each one adding a personal touch to the rich heritage preserved here.

The air inside was filled with the scent of freshly baked baguettes and buttery croissants. They served strong coffee and éclairs generously filled with velvety custard. Interestingly, each éclair was accompanied by a tablespoon—perhaps to ensure no part of this culinary masterpiece was left uneaten. The éclairs were so substantial they could easily double as a hearty breakfast. We sat at a small outdoor table with our hot coffee and warm pastries, watching the town come to life. Locals appeared on the streets, stores opened their shutters, and the gentle hum of life began to fill the air, like a lazy cat stretching awake.

After breakfast, we headed to the citadel perched above the town. The ascent wasn’t difficult but was steep. Climbing the stone steps along the ancient walls, we reached a vantage point that offered breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. The town seemed like a distant memory, tucked far below.

Descending from the citadel, we made our way to the pedestrian bridge where the Restonica and Tavignano rivers meet. The path meandered through lush greenery, and soon the sound of rushing water reached our ears. The sight of the two rivers converging was mesmerizing. Their crystal-clear, cool waters rushed over rocks, and the bridge itself felt like a passage between worlds—linking the town’s bustling life with the serene embrace of nature.

Return to Day 4-8: Camping Fautea. >>>

Go to Day 12-16: Camping San Damiano >>>