Mexico Beyond the Resorts: Travel Notes. Day 1

Our flight boarding was delayed multiple times. First, they were fixing a plane malfunction, then waiting for another aircraft to arrive. This was one of those rare occasions when passengers didn’t complain but rather said, “No need to rush.” We were supposed to arrive at night (if we arrived at all), and all plans were thrown out the window—car rental, traveling to the next city for an overnight stay. And yet… we didn’t care. Seriously—we were calm!

Then I hung out with some young people near the charging outlets. They showed me where to fill out a compensation form on the airline’s website for the delay. By that time, we had already racked up $400 each (for a $299 ticket!). Waiting suddenly took on a new perspective! We weren’t just sitting around—we were earning money! When we had just 1.5 hours left to reach the next compensation threshold of $700, boarding was announced. Our flight erupted in applause and cheers throughout the airport. We boarded the plane like one big family—we had all gotten to know each other over the course of the day.

Our team—Sergey, me, and my mom, the mastermind behind the trip, who just “had to see the pyramids!”

The main issue for everyone was that we were arriving at night. Some people needed to get to an island—ferries weren’t running. Others had strict hotel or apartment check-in times until 11 PM. So, even before takeoff, the entire plane was brainstorming where to stay overnight.

This trip wasn’t the usual beach vacation—it was a sightseeing tour. We were supposed to pick up a car right away in Cancun and drive inland to Yucatán for the night. We did get the car, but we were hesitant to drive out of the resort area at night. Plus, it was exhausting, so we checked into a hotel in downtown Cancun instead. Driving through the city at night left quite an impression: wide avenues, tall modern buildings! The lighting was great. We stayed downtown (not by the sea). The hotel was decent, with a pool and a secure parking lot behind a fence. The security guard was very nice—came out at 2 AM when we were lost, opened the gate, and told us where to go (in a mix of English and Spanish). In general, people here are VERY friendly! They may be slow, but they do everything with such heart that you just can’t rush them…

The hotel we checked into at 3 AM downtown—though not by the sea—had a pool and a decent breakfast. It was the most “civilized” place we would stay on this trip!

To avoid painting an overly “perfect picture,” here’s Cancun beyond the city center:

Houses look pretty rough from the outside—probably due to humidity. But right next to them, behind a gated community, you can find well-maintained ones. And those fences… impressive!

We paid 400 pesos (about $30) for access to the toll highway. That’s why it’s almost empty.


The weather is wonderful – +30°C, tolerable humidity, and even some clouds. The best possible conditions for visiting the pyramids (last time, we were here with the kids in August).

Writing about Chichen Itza—where every Canadian tourist has been (since it’s the closest “pyramid” site to the Riviera Maya resorts)—is like describing Red Square. But I have to say a few words:Chichen Itza was a Mayan city that thrived between 600-1200 AD (around the time of the Roman Empire).

Maya Civilization:

  • from 2000 BCE to its decline with the arrival of the Spanish;
  • developed writing system
  • the most accurate calendar of its time, 365 days a year
  • astronomy – observed planetary movements, predicted eclipses
  • architecture

The Kukulkan Pyramid was not just built as a temple but as a giant astronomical calendar.
Four sides, each with 91 steps. If you add up all the steps and include the top platform, you get 365! On the spring and autumn equinoxes (March 21 and September 23), the sunlight creates the illusion of a “crawling serpent” along the pyramid’s edges. Also, as mathematicians and architects, they created many acoustic illusions. Clap at a certain distance, and the pyramid echoes back across the entire “city.” Very impressive. It works from all four sides.

Another famous site is the ball game field (though it’s still unclear who was sacrificed—the losers, the winners, or just captives). The field is enormous, but last time our guide (who was a professor) pointed out something interesting—”there are no stands!” Indeed, except for a small temple where the priests were, everything is enclosed by high walls. He explained that this was a religious ritual, not a spectacle. This time, Sergey claims he found the “entrance to the stands.” Decide for yourself.

There’s still a lot to see, including a significant observatory, but this time I focused on examining the “little figures” on the bas-reliefs.

Progreso is a resort for locals. It has a long beachfront promenade lined with many beautifully designed restaurants. We were so hungry that we walked into the first one we saw. Luckily, I prepared a bit for this trip (worried about unfamiliar and spicy food, and there’s no English in these areas). So, Chat prepared a list of Yucatan dishes to try, and we ordered exactly from the list. It was a feast of flavors!

My mom and I started with Sopa de Lima: a fragrant chicken soup with lime. Sergey chose Chilpachole de camarón—a spicy Mexican shrimp soup with a thick broth made from chili, tomatoes, and spices. There were plenty of shrimp. Then we enjoyed:

Tikin Xic: Fish marinated in orange juice and spices, baked in a banana leaf.
Poc Chuc: Traditional grilled pork with an orange sauce.
Puerto a la yucateca: Pork marinated in achiote sauce with citrus and Maya spices.
Even reading this makes your mouth water! And tasting it—pure bliss! We paired it all with a guacamole salad.
The dinner cost 1500 pesos. After that, we had to take a long walk along the promenade. And tomorrow—more pyramids!

I took a dip in the water. It stays shallow for a long distance, so even though the water is very clear, it looks “brownish” due to the sand. It’s warm, probably like European waters in summer. The waves are gentle because it’s shallow. Swimming is pleasant, but it doesn’t compare to the southern part of Yucatan.

Olga
Olga
I'm someone who exudes energy and enthusiasm, especially when it comes to exploring new destinations. Museums, historical sites, and guided tours are my passions, as they offer me the chance to delve into the rich tapestry of culture and heritage wherever I go. I thrive on discovering hidden treasures and immersing myself in the local way of life.I usually lucky to find the best tour guides in every city, ensuring that every journey is not only educational but also incredibly engaging.

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