Французская Симфония: От Берегов Атлантики К Замкам Луары. День 6-9

Day 6: Château de Chenonceau, Le Moulin Fort, Camping Le Moulin Fort

Camping Le Moulin Fort is a true haven of coziness and charm, located on the banks of the Cher River. The owners, a welcoming English family, create a warm and friendly atmosphere. On the campsite grounds, there is a fascinating miniature museum of photography equipment, showcasing an impressive variety of cameras—from antique models to those from the last century. This place captivates even those who are not particularly interested in photography.

From the campsite, you can walk to Château de Chenonceau, also known as the “Château of the Five Ladies”—a stroll of just a few minutes. Chenonceau, this magnificent bridge-castle, is one of the most romantic places in the Loire Valley.

In addition to strolling through the halls and admiring the stunning park with the gardens of Catherine de’ Medici and Diane de Poitiers, visitors can rent a canoe and paddle directly under the arches of the château. This incredible adventure offers a unique perspective on the architecture from the water, making you feel as if you’ve stepped into another era.

And if you wait until the evening, you can take a walk along the opposite bank of the Cher River and enjoy the view of the château illuminated by lights. In the quiet solitude, this enchanting spectacle remains in memory as one of the most magical moments of the journey.

Day 7: Amboise, Clos Lucé

What do you really know about Leonardo da Vinci? Visiting the Château d’Amboise, where the great master rests, and the nearby Château du Clos Lucé, you’ll realize that you only knew the tip of the iceberg. Both castles combine history, art, and science, immersing visitors in the era when Leonardo created his greatest masterpieces. For convenience, you can purchase a combined ticket, which allows you to save money and plan a visit to two (or three) castles in one day.

It’s best to start with the Château d’Amboise, a majestic royal castle where key events in French history took place and where Leonardo’s remains are (presumably) buried.

Then, you can explore Clos Lucé—the house where he spent his final years. The castles are only a 15-minute walk apart. In the park of Clos Lucé, Leonardo’s ideas and inventions come to life. His sketches have been transformed into real mechanisms that you can see in action. This walk feels like stepping into the genius’s laboratory. It was in Clos Lucé that Leonardo painted his famous “Mona Lisa,” which has now become a symbol of France.

But why did a Florentine artist’s work become so significant for France? The answer can be found here, in this house that became the final residence of the great Italian. With an audio guide or simply by wandering through the halls, you immerse yourself in the story of a man who was ahead of his time and left a legacy that continues to inspire and amaze.

Day 8: Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire

The idea of embarking on a journey through the castles of the Loire came to us thanks to Chaumont-sur-Loire. Who hasn’t read the witty detective novel “What the Corpse Said” by Polish writer Joanna Chmielewska as a child or watched the brilliant TV adaptation featuring the inimitable Oleg Tabakov and a stellar cast? In both the book and its screen adaptation (from which I took the quote for the epigraph), the castle played a key role in the plot. However, Chaumont is famous for much more than just that.

Its centuries-old history is closely tied to the French crown. It belonged to powerful kings and queens, witnessing intrigues, alliances, and betrayals. Situated on the banks of the Loire, Chaumont captivates with its elegant architecture and enchanting atmosphere. Here, time seems to stand still. The castle is especially renowned for its magnificent gardens. Every year, its park participates in the prestigious Garden Festival, consistently earning top spots in the Loire garden competition. Walking through the castle halls and garden paths, you feel transported to another world—a world where history, art, and nature merge into one. Chaumont is a place not to be missed.

In 1550, Catherine de’ Medici, seeking power and influence, acquired Chaumont-sur-Loire. This grand palace became not only a place of retreat but also a stage for political games and mystical rituals. Here, she hosted many astrologers, including the famous Nostradamus, whose predictions may have influenced the queen’s own fate. After the tragic death of her husband, King Henry II, in 1559, Catherine—whose power and ambitions knew no bounds—forced his mistress, Diane de Poitiers, to exchange Chaumont for the more prestigious Château de Chenonceau. At that moment in history, not only love and jealousy reigned, but also the art of manipulation and political maneuvering, where castles were more than residences—they were symbols of power.

Day 9: Château de Chambord

Château de Chambord is one of the most magnificent and iconic structures in France. Unfortunately, we couldn’t go inside this time, but we plan to next year. However, we thoroughly explored its exterior. The many winding paths around the castle, along the canals, make for a pleasant stroll, or you can rent a bicycle or an electric cart for an even better experience.

Chambord was built at the request of Francis I in the early 16th century, and according to one theory, the reason for its construction was the king’s desire to impress Countess Thuri, a woman he was in love with who lived nearby. Inspired by her beauty and status, he decided to build a château that would symbolize his power and refined taste.

The identity of the castle’s architect remains unknown, but many historians believe it may have been Leonardo da Vinci himself, who was living at the French court at the time. His influence is evident in the architecture of Chambord: the unique staircases, exquisite facades, and elements such as the high towers and intricate roofs that became symbols of the French Renaissance. If you stay until evening, you can have a picnic on the lush green field in front of the castle, with a glass of wine and some snacks. At nightfall, the castle is illuminated in various colors, creating a truly magical spectacle.

The Loire Valley is an incredible place, often called the “Valley of Castles” for a reason. There are around eighty of them here—ranging from small estates to grand palaces with rich histories. If you were to visit four castles per vacation, it would take twenty years to see them all!

Each of these castles is not just an old building but a true window into the past. They hold stories of kings, aristocrats, and visionaries who shaped their eras. Every tower, every staircase seems to whisper secrets of bygone times, making you want to linger just a little longer.