A French Symphony: From the Atlantic Shores to the Castles of the Loire. Day 1

“France! France! A fantastic, amazing country! Mireille Mathieu, Jean Gabin, the Louvre, fine stockings, Alain Delon, Jean Marais, crème brûlée, Camus the writer, ‘Camus’ cognac, Dumas father, Dumas son, Edith Piaf, Chanel №5, haute couture, Gascony, Champagne. I adore it!” (C)

The Atlantic coast of France and the Loire Valley are among the most beautiful regions of the country. There is always a desire to find a balance between relaxing and an action-packed itinerary that combines historical immersion and enjoying the moment. France seems made for such trips. Our goal was to dive into the centuries-old history of the Loire’s medieval castles, explore the relatively young but already famous wine region of Saint-Émilion, visit unique salt marshes, and see the largest sand dune in Europe. For this, we rented a motorhome.

France is a country perfectly suited for such trips. There are numerous campsites and specially equipped stops where you can spend the night in a motorhome. Along the route, you’ll find convenient places to charge the vehicle, drain, and refill water, making a camper trip not only comfortable but also simple to organize. When budgeting for the trip, keep in mind that driving a motorhome over 3.10 m tall on toll roads in France is significantly more expensive than for smaller vehicles.

Moreover, toll roads represent a significant expense in a travel budget. However, if you have enough time, you can choose free routes that not only save money but also provide the pleasure of roads winding through sunflower fields and small, cozy villages where every turn reveals a new picturesque view.

Day 1: The Salt Marshes of Guérande and Naturist Beach Pen Bron

For our first stop, we chose Camping Deffay in the heart of Parc Régional de la Grande Brière, the second-largest marsh reserve in France. This unique nature park is known for its scenic canals, reed fields, and large lakes, home to many rare bird species. You can also see traditional thatched-roof houses preserving the authentic look of the region.

The campsite was very spacious, with large pitches right on the lake shore. Amenities included a covered pool, which was particularly enjoyable on cool evenings, although the sanitary facilities were in need of renovation. One of the campsite’s main attractions was the lake and its inhabitants. Watching the charming otters swimming on their backs along the lake proved to be an extraordinarily engaging activity. The local nature added a special charm: the silence was occasionally broken by the calls of rare birds living on the lake.

The salt marshes of Guérande (Das Salz von Guérande) are one of the most famous sites on the Atlantic coast, where salt harvesting traditions have been preserved for over a thousand years. These marshes form a network of geometrically precise salt basins, which reflect various hues at sunset. Salt is harvested here manually, as it was in medieval times.

The origins of salt harvesting on the Guérande peninsula date back to the Iron Age, the time of the first Celtic towns. This salt is sometimes referred to as Celtic salt. The most prized product is fleur de sel — a delicate crystalline salt formed on the surface of the basins. It is renowned for its mild flavor and is a true delicacy, sought after by the finest restaurants in the world.

You can drive through the salt marshes of Guérande on narrow roads that wind between the basins. The basins, at different stages of processing, vary in color from pale blue to deep purple. Neat piles of salt or entire mounds can be seen along the edges of the basins.

For those who want to learn more about the history and technology of salt production, guided tours are available in various languages. With a guide, you can walk through the marshes, see the work process, and learn about traditions passed down through generations. However, if you prefer to explore independently, you can simply stroll along the basins and enjoy their extraordinary geometric beauty.

In the center of the salt marshes, where you can book tours, there is a small boutique shop dedicated entirely to local salt (Terre de Sel). Here, you can find various types of salt: coarse, fine, flavored with herbs, lemon, or spices. We watched with amusement as tourists eagerly bought ten-kilogram canvas bags of salt. We opted for just a couple of modest 100-gram packets — for ourselves and as gifts.

However, we soon realized we had greatly underestimated this salt. It turns out that not only does it look beautiful, but it also has a special flavor that can transform a dish. Now, Guérande salt is our absolute favorite, and we genuinely regret not buying a bag like others did.

Visiting the salt marshes is not only an opportunity to see traditional craftsmanship but also to enjoy the surrounding nature.

At the Plage naturiste de Pen Bron, you can spend a wonderful day enjoying the natural beauty and atmosphere of solitude. This beach, located on the Pen Bron peninsula, is an extensive sandy spit bordered on one side by the Atlantic Ocean and on the other by the salt marshes of Guérande. Such a unique landscape creates a feeling of complete harmony with nature.

The beach is renowned for its tranquility and serenity, making it especially popular among those seeking a secluded retreat. Thanks to its status as a protected natural area, there are hardly any buildings here, and the beach has preserved its pristine state.

Crystal-clear water, soft sand, and stunning views — the perfect combination for those who want to spend time away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Even simply strolling along the beach is a pleasure: you can enjoy the sound of the waves, the gentle sea breeze, and truly relax.