Corsica: The Island Where Beauty Is a Part of Everyday Life. Camping Fautea.

Day 4: Ferry Arrival and Camping Check-In

We planned our two-week journey through Corsica with tents, selecting several campsites across the island for our stops. Today, camping is not just an adventure but also an experience that requires some skill and the right mindset. A tent becomes part of the overall experience and can be just as comfortable as staying in a hotel, provided everything is well-organized.

The key step is choosing the right campsite. This stage demands the same care as picking a hotel. It’s essential to study reviews, compare conditions, and check the facilities offered. Campsites rated at least four stars typically ensure clean showers and toilets, well-maintained grounds, pools, shops, and restaurants. However, such campsites are rare in Corsica. The island is a haven for hipsters, free spirits, and lovers of goat cheese, where comfort is not always the priority. Instead, harmony with nature and a sense of freedom are treasured, with luxury being the opportunity to immerse yourself in unspoiled natural beauty.

Even in such conditions, it’s possible to maintain a certain level of comfort. Equipment plays a key role. We chose a spacious four-person tent with a separate kitchen terrace and sleeping area. For two people, it became exceptionally cozy. A portable fridge with a freezer allowed us to keep drinks cold and store food—essential in the warm climate. A portable sink with a five-liter water tank and an electric grill were great additions. (Note: Charcoal grills are almost universally banned in Corsica due to the high risk of fires.)

This approach helped us realize that camping isn’t just a possibility but a wonderful way to spend time in nature. The combination of wilderness and thoughtful conveniences made our Corsica adventure unforgettable and comfortable.

The Fautea campground is located near Porto-Vecchio and sits on terraces, making vehicle access challenging. On the plus side, it offers stunning views from secluded spots and has two private beaches: one sandy and the other rocky. Additionally, there are two large public beaches nearby. One of them, Plage de Fautea, is a delightful spot with a soft sandy shore and crystal-clear water, surrounded by pine trees and picturesque rocks. Access is only on foot, which adds a special charm and makes it an even more tranquil retreat.

However, there are downsides: cars must be left in the parking lot, and belongings carried to your spot. The showers and toilets need renovation. Despite these drawbacks, the campsite’s convenient location makes it easy to explore Porto-Vecchio and Bonifacio.

We selected a wonderful secluded spot with a sea view and immediately decided to stay for five nights to leisurely explore the southeastern part of Corsica. This corner of the island felt tailor-made for relaxation: the fresh sea breeze, silence, and endless ocean vistas invited us to slow down, enjoy nature, and gradually uncover the island’s hidden gems.

Day 5: Beach des Grès Roses and Porto-Vecchio

A thunderstorm passed the night before—a common but fleeting occurrence in Corsica. As the sea was rough, we decided to drive along the coast in search of a suitable beach. We didn’t have to search for long and stumbled upon Plage des Grès Roses, a secluded beach in a cozy bay with crystal-clear water and calm seas. Aside from us, there was only one Italian couple, also snorkeling and exploring Corsica’s amazing underwater world.

On the way back, we stopped by Porto-Vecchio, a small but charming town that retains the atmosphere of an old port settlement. Its narrow cobblestone streets wind between ancient buildings draped with flowers and greenery, leading up to the citadel. The climb was short but well worth it—breathtaking views of the harbor and the shimmering sea reflecting the soft light of the setting sun awaited us at the top.

Reaching the citadel, we found a small square with a few cozy cafés. We rested on the terrace of one, sipping refreshing drinks. A funny moment occurred when a cheerful old man, clearly a local character, ordered a beer at a nearby table. Lifting his mug with a wink, he declared, “This is my only exercise for today!” The whole terrace laughed, and he, pleased with the reaction, took a triumphant sip, making the moment unforgettable. These charming little details gave Porto-Vecchio its character, where even the smallest elements have their own stories.

Day 6: Bonifacio

Bonifacio is perhaps the most tourist-friendly city in Corsica. Unlike other towns where restored buildings stand side by side with crumbling ones, Bonifacio feels polished and pristine. While visually pleasing, this refinement lends a slightly artificial feel, making the city seem more like a tourist attraction than a living medieval corner of Corsica. Nonetheless, it retains a unique charm.

The city sits atop a hill, and the climb is not for the faint-hearted. We parked at the nearest available parking lot, which cost €10–15—the most expensive parking fee we encountered on the trip.

Wandering through the city, you’ll find promenades along the cliffs with spectacular views of the rugged coastline. There’s also access to the famous King Aragon Steps (Escalier du Roi d’Aragon). According to legend, these steps were carved into the sheer cliff in one night by King Aragon’s soldiers during a siege. The staircase, consisting of 187 steps, descends straight to the sea. While historians doubt the legend, suggesting it was built to access a water source, descending these ancient steps is an exhilarating adventure. For a small fee, you’ll receive a helmet and can enjoy the coolness of the cliff as you descend to the turquoise waters below.

Walking further along the cape allows you to circumnavigate the city’s edge, enjoying stunning views and passing through an old cemetery. This unique cemetery is a “city” of mausoleums belonging to wealthy families, complete with streets, squares, and even a fountain.

After exploring Bonifacio, we relaxed at a café, trying the local Corsican beer “Pietra,” brewed with chestnuts. Chestnuts are a symbol of Corsica, used in everything from flour to jams.

After the city, we explored the rocky coastline to the left of Bonifacio. From these cliffs, we had breathtaking views of the city perched over the water, seemingly floating above the sea.

On the way back, we stumbled upon several secluded beaches, both sandy and pebbly. One such gem was Plage Santa Manza, a quiet and nearly deserted spot surrounded by cliffs and pines. The water was crystal-clear and calm, perfect for swimming. We spent hours here enjoying the serenity, snorkeling, and observing marine life. The fish swam so close you could see every detail, and they seemed just as curious about us as we were about them.

Day 7: Vallee de Cavu – Exploring the Conca River Valley

One of the many trails along a mountain river with natural pools was just a 30-minute drive from our campsite. This hidden gem, nestled under pine trees and surrounded by majestic mountains, was the perfect escape. We parked at a paid lot (€10) in the pine forest and headed to the tourist information point. Two friendly staff members at the counter enthusiastically provided route details, a map, and advice on the best starting point. They also offered bus tickets for those who preferred not to walk.

We opted for a trail along the riverbed. The path was winding and required navigating over rocks, which added a sense of adventure. Many visitors, like us, brought water shoes to move through the water and enjoy the pristine streams. Along the way, we swam in small natural pools where sunlight danced on the water or relaxed on large rocks, breathing in the fresh pine scent and marveling at the mountainous scenery.

The walk to the main pool took about 45 minutes, but we couldn’t resist stopping for several swims along the way. The main pool was spacious and quite popular with visitors, some of whom arrived by bus for a refreshing dip in the river. The water was surprisingly warm, making it hard to leave. A visit here is worth planning for an entire day. Nearby, a small restaurant served local delicacies such as wild boar sausage, cheese, olives, and fresh baguettes.

A ten-minute walk from the restaurant led us to a bridge offering stunning views of the mountains and river in both directions. Descending from the bridge, we reached natural pools with waterfalls—these little jacuzzis, crafted by nature, were a delightful surprise. Sitting in the warm, bubbling water, we felt completely at one with nature. Leaving this spot was the hardest part of the day.

On the way back, you can choose an easier trail along the road, taking about 40 minutes to return to the parking lot. However, we preferred to cross the river and hike back through the pine forest. The entire route, without stops, took about two hours, but every moment spent in this beautiful place was worth it.

Day 8: Beach Day

We enjoyed a day of relaxation, snorkeling, and exploring the underwater world.

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