On October 19th, I embarked on a day trip to Naples, a city that had long captivated my imagination with its vibrant energy and rich cultural heritage. My preconceptions of Naples were a hazy blend of childhood memories, colored by the catchy tune of “Ta-ta-ti-ta ta-ta-tam-ta…”, a Neapolitan folk song that had woven itself into the fabric of my youth.
To my surprise, Naples unveiled itself as a city far removed from my initial impressions. It bore a striking resemblance to Odessa or Lisbon, these vibrant port cities brimming with life and infused with the intoxicating aroma of fish and sun-kissed air.
Just like in Lisbon, Naples boasts charming funiculars and majestic castles. The city is also adorned with vibrant graffiti and exudes an infectious passion for football, evident in the abundance of fan paraphernalia adorning the streets. The presence of funiculars and castles hints at Naples’ rich history and architectural heritage, while the graffiti and football fervor speak to the city’s vibrant contemporary culture. This harmonious blend of old and new, tradition and modernity, is what makes Naples so captivating.
And then there’s the remarkable Via San Gregorio Armeno, nestled near the church of the same name. I spent several unforgettable hours wandering along this captivating street.
Naples, once again. The majestic Cathedral, the grand Piazza del Plebiscito, the bustling port, and the breathtaking panorama of Mount Vesuvius. A labyrinth of narrow, winding streets that weave their way through the heart of the city. A truly magnificent place.
“And whoever doesn’t get lost in it is a clever one. But I’m not clever, I got lost…” These words capture the essence of Naples, a city that embraces chaos and invites exploration. It’s a place where getting lost is not just a possibility, it’s an integral part of the experience.
Naples, through the lens of a traveler’s camera. Capturing the essence of this vibrant city, one photograph at a time. But among these snapshots, a few stand out, their beauty radiating from the depths of the Neapolitan Metro.
The locals and tourists alike hold their metro system in high esteem, rightfully recognizing it as a masterpiece of modern design and artistry. And with good reason. The Neapolitan Metro is a relatively young addition to the city’s infrastructure, still under construction, hinting at the promise of even more breathtaking stations to come.
As you descend into the depths of the metro, you’re greeted by a symphony of colors, textures, and architectural brilliance. Each station is a unique work of art, showcasing the creativity and innovation that define the Neapolitan spirit.
As promised, I’ll tell you about San Gregorio Armeno Street in Naples, a street of artisans with a rich history.
In the heart of Naples, where the bustling Via dei Tribunali beckons crowds of tourists, a quiet little street with an intriguing name lies hidden – Via San Gregorio Armeno.
Who would have thought that in this ancient Italian city there would be a street dedicated to an Armenian saint? The answer lies in the convent of the same name, which fled from Byzantium in the Middle Ages, escaping the iconoclastic policies of the time. The nuns brought with them the relics of Saint Gregory of Armenia, the enlightener and first Catholicos (Patriarch) of Armenia.
The monastery, now Benedictine and adorned with Baroque architecture, still welcomes visitors, giving them the opportunity to touch history. In the mornings, the doors of the monastery open to tourists, inviting them into an atmosphere of peace and spirituality.
But it was not the monastery walls that brought Via San Gregorio Armeno its true fame, but the skillfully crafted Christmas presepes. The street transforms into a paradise for lovers of these miniature works of art.
Small shops, like wizards’ stalls, entice shoppers with an abundance of figurines, miniature mechanisms, and decorations. Here you can find anything your heart desires: from tiny mills that come to life under the skillful hands of craftsmen to exquisite statuettes of the Magi and the Holy Family.
The artisans of Via San Gregorio Armeno pour their hearts and souls into their creations, imbuing each piece with a unique personality and charm. Their passion for their craft is evident in the intricate details and the lifelike expressions of the figurines.
As you stroll along the street, you’ll be captivated by the vibrant colors, the intricate craftsmanship, and the sheer creativity on display. It’s a feast for the senses, a testament to the rich artistic heritage of Naples.
So, if you ever find yourself in Naples, be sure to set aside some time to explore the wonders of Via San Gregorio Armeno. It’s a place where you’ll discover the true spirit of Christmas, a celebration of faith, family, and the enduring power of art.
From November to January, the little street comes alive, filling with bustling crowds of people from all over the world. Each one seeks here their own unique nativity scene, created by the hands of Neapolitan masters.
But even in the summer months, a special atmosphere reigns here. Strolling along Via San Gregorio Armeno, you can look into the workshops of sculptors, watching as little masterpieces are born under their skillful hands.
Via San Gregorio Armeno is not just a street, it is a portal to the world of Christmas magic, where history and art merge into one.
The tradition of Neapolitan presepe (mangers) has its roots in very ancient times, and the street of craftsmen of clay figurines has been located here since the late 18th century.
It was completely by chance that I found information about this street on the Internet on the eve of my trip, and I decided that “Whatever happens, I need to get out…”. I am very glad that I was lucky enough to be there.
The first portion of many photographs from there. Primarily for fans of folk art.
Here are some additional details that you may find interesting:
- The presepe tradition is said to have originated in Saint Francis of Assisi’s reenactment of the Nativity scene in Greccio, Italy, in 1223.
- Neapolitan presepe are typically larger and more elaborate than presepe from other regions of Italy. They often feature miniature figures depicting everyday life in Naples, as well as religious figures.
- The artisans of Via San Gregorio Armeno use a variety of materials to create their presepe, including clay, wood, metal, and cloth.
- The presepe are not just decorations; they are also considered to be works of art. Many Neapolitans collect presepe and pass them down from generation to generation.
Let’s continue our walk down Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples, the Mecca of Neapolitan nativity scene makers. The prices are definitely crazy, but window shopping is completely free.
Neapolitans buy these regularly, and before Christmas they take them out of the attic and polish them with oil to make them look festive. The most antique figurines are sometimes even given to restorers to keep them looking their best.
And by tradition, the eldest member of the family takes care of this.
